Not to mention the obvious but a large motivator was to surf these waves that had for so long seemed out of reach but soooooooooo very tempting . Since arriving here in Tahiti it has been a non stop string of “Firsts”…. The olas (waves) here have proven to be beautiful and as perfect as they seem when staring at them dreamingly from within the pages of a surf mag. Requiring a lot of fear swallowing and narrow escapes but, not to sound like a surfer dude cliché!, once you are rewarded with one Tahitian barrel you can’t help but want many many many more!!!
January 31st, 2009 · 7 Comments
Tags: Natural Mystic