Swells hit the top shelf straight on and you sit inside there, too deep on the reef to ever feel comfortable, then chuck yourself over the appearing ledge, behind the bowl, as water just drains off the now dry reef, this usually involves a grabbing airdrop on your backhand, landing just feet from the dry coral, as the bulk of the wave hits a corner pocket of reef, jacks up and the wave just bends 90? and heaves a perfect, thick bubble and spits you out, every time, like a mini Teahupoo…. No one’s around, its mean, pumping with double overhead sets greeting us and we’re hesitantly out there, triple checking the dink anchor, as the current out the pass is like an angry river, complete with rapids, as the lagoon tries to empty all the excess water out of the 25 foot wide, very narrow opening, as the new swell surges huge volumes of water over barrier reef. No need to paddle out, the current sucks you right to the peak, as I watch Kahlil airdrop, to a tube smack down pummeling on his first attempt.
January 29th, 2009 · 9 Comments
Tags: Natural Mystic